Traditions are fading away
- Claire Brunaud
- Jan 16
- 18 min read
Since fewer and fewer of us read, here’s a summary for those who don’t have the strength to go through the whole thing :
Traditional restaurants are in crisis, weakened by inflation, rising costs, government-backed loan repayments, and competition from fast food and global cuisines.
Hiring is a major challenge : there’s a shortage of skilled chefs to pass down traditional recipes, and while foreign workers are motivated and efficient, they sometimes lack foundational knowledge of French cooking.
Younger generations are drifting away from traditional dining, influenced by fast-paced, image-driven consumption trends — but movements like bistronomy and the comeback of old-style bouillons show a renewed interest.
Tradition remains a cultural pillar : emblematic dishes like blanquette or sweetbreads embody a unique lifestyle, cherished by tourists and fans of conviviality.
Revival is possible : it depends on modernizing the image, improving communication (especially on social media), and showcasing the stories and know-how behind each recipe.
Adding a plant-based touch is key : revisiting traditional dishes with refined, indulgent plant-based alternatives to meet the expectations of flexitarians and vegetarians.
Social recognition of hospitality careers is crucial : improving working conditions and valuing professionals to attract new talent.
The customer experience needs to be reimagined : warm welcomes, friendly atmospheres, and services tailored to modern expectations (mixology, coffee shops, festive evenings).
Hybrid venues offer a future path, blending gastronomy, cocktails, and complementary activities to diversify the offering and attract new audiences.
Forgotten recipes could make a comeback : dishes like poulet sauté chasseur or millas, subtly modernized, could perfectly unite tradition and innovation.
Now here’s the full version
As 2025 begins, a poll in the press reminds us that Jean-Jacques Goldman remains France’s favorite public figure. A comforting constant, one might think. And yet, when talking with the younger generation, his name mostly draws puzzled looks. As Charles Aznavour so rightly sang in “Les plaisirs démodés,” times change inexorably, taking yesterday’s landmarks with them.
Also gone are the days when a night worker would knock back a glass of white wine at 8 a.m. at the corner bistro. A change surely welcome for public health, but it also signals the end of an era when traditional dining shaped the rhythm of neighborhood life, when every place had its own personality, regulars, and timeless rituals. Volatility has now taken over.
This reflection eerily mirrors the transformations the French restaurant scene has been undergoing for the past thirty years. Everywhere, industry professionals are seeing the deep changes reshaping our commercial streets. Storefronts tell the story : traditional bistros with checkered tablecloths and neatly written chalkboards are gradually vanishing, replaced by trendy venues with English names and sleek designs.
The places that shaped our French art of living are undergoing unprecedented shifts. Bakeries, historic temples of bread and pastries, are expanding to become full-fledged dining spots. Traditional cafés, once vibrant meeting places for sharing a drink and making memories, are giving way to modern coffee shops serving hurried customers with takeaway cups.
The snacking phenomenon is disrupting everyone’s eating habits. With new concepts and international street food appearing every day, choices are more diverse than ever. Traditional establishments are seeing their clientele evolve, while creative cocktails and trendy drinks are reshaping the notion of conviviality, a far cry from the old rituals where the bistro counter served as the daily gathering point.
More concerning is the fate of our culinary heritage. Among professionals, one question keeps resurfacing : who still serves the dishes that made our cuisine famous ?
Head cheese with vinaigrette, authentic pot-au-feu with bone marrow on garlic-rubbed toast, or classic blanquette de veau are all slowly disappearing into culinary history books. These iconic recipes are fading from menus, as if they belonged to a bygone era.
This evolution in sit-down traditional dining raises serious questions about the future of our gastronomic heritage. Many professionals are wondering, observing, analyzing. Not with excessive nostalgia, but with genuine concern, they note the deep changes affecting their craft. This collective questioning deserves our attention : how are these changes happening ? What are their causes and effects ? And above all, what future lies ahead for our rich culinary legacy, beyond the social changes that, while steering us away from some questionable past practices, also seem to take away part of our gastronomic identity ?
Chapter 1 : What tradition means in the restaurant world ?
Traditional catering primarily evokes the image of sit-down dining, a meal format that fully embodies the French art of living. With nearly 100,000 establishments across the country, this sphere constitutes a vital foundation of the gastronomic sector. Yet, this population has somewhat declined in recent months, due to the combined effects of economic difficulties—inflation, economic crisis—and the repayment of state-guaranteed loans (PGE) granted during the COVID crisis.
This difficult context has led to a drop in attendance and a tightening in the number of establishments, particularly affecting traditional catering.
A fragile sector: the dichotomy between large structures and small businesses.
In a strained market, a dichotomy emerges: on one hand, large structures and successful businesses (often well-positioned geographically or financially) that manage to adapt and fight back; on the other, small establishments, often family-run or neighborhood businesses, that are particularly struggling. The latter are struggling to cope with rising costs and shrinking margins, while having to attract customers who are more cautious in their spending.
However, traditional catering remains extremely resilient and retains its role as a true culinary and social memory of the territory. This is the everyday catering, where one finds the dish of the day, hearty recipes, and the warm atmosphere of the café-restaurant, sometimes timeless. These establishments often offer continuous service, adapted hours, and formulas that fit into local habits, with a varied offer — from great regional classics to modern solutions like happy hour with boards or the emergence of mixology as a complementary activity.
One of the major challenges for these establishments remains, however, their dependence on trained chefs, capable of executing and enhancing these traditional recipes. At the heart of traditional catering lies the art of reviving authentic flavors and meeting customers’ quest for culinary wonder.
When timeless flavors saturate the average bill
A successful traditional restaurant manages to maximize the average consumer ticket, especially during evening service where gustatory pleasure can take precedence over economic constraints. Nothing speaks louder than the sight of a forty-something's eyes lighting up at a perfectly cooked sweetbread, served on silky homemade mashed potatoes. Or the emotion felt at the arrival of a generous piece of beef, accompanied by pepper sauce served freely. So many examples that illustrate the emotional and gustatory power of traditional catering, which knows how to seduce through the intimacy of its recipes and the excellence of its terroir.
A vehicle of French terroir
Traditional catering is more than just a mode of consumption; it is a French cultural and identity symbol. Just like the Eiffel Tower, the beret, or the baguette under the arm, it represents a tangible dimension of French heritage. Each traditional restaurant contributes to transmitting timeless flavors, telling local stories, and embodying a certain art of living. In recent months, this symbolic image has been further reinforced: France, as host of the incredible Olympic Games, offers the world a showcase of its culture, and traditional catering is a centerpiece of that display.
With these solid cultural foundations, traditional catering continues to assert its place despite economic challenges, proving that it remains one of the most authentic and attractive expressions of French gastronomy.
Chapter 2 : How is this restoration being undermined today ?
Traditional catering, once the unshakable pillar of French sit-down gastronomy, is now facing a set of structural and cultural factors that undermine its stability and its appeal to younger generations. These influences, often stemming from societal and culinary upheavals, are redefining eating habits to the detriment of traditional establishments.
The explosion of snacking: a formidable rival
In the span of two decades, snacking has experienced explosive growth, with the emergence of more than 40,000 additional establishments in just 20 years. This type of catering, based on speed, accessibility, and simplicity, directly rivals the traditional model. Culinary blockbusters, such as burgers or Caesar salads – easy to execute and largely standardized – have often replaced traditional classics like beef tartare or slow-cooked dishes.
On top of that, influences from abroad, especially American, are reshaping the gastronomic landscape :
Cookies, donuts, and other Anglo-Saxon sweets widely adopted by consumers.
A disinterest in certain classic desserts, such as crème brûlée, which are losing their place to these new sweet trends.
Finally, another notable phenomenon is the invention or expansion of “French-style” snacking recipes, such as French tacos (often far removed from their Mexican origins), which are becoming part of consumers’ daily routines.
The influence of social networks and younger generations
The rise of Generation Z, influenced by social media (notably Instagram and TikTok), is redefining consumption standards. These younger generations, drawn to external influences (lifestyles, exotic cuisines, food trends), are moving away from the established codes of French gastronomy.
This “loss of culinary bearings” is reflected in a preference for global cuisines or simplified meals that are easy to reproduce at home. The normalization of home-cooked recipes, often lighter or modified in their execution, also erodes the relevance of traditional dishes in some minds.
The ethnic wave: the rise of Asian cuisine
Beyond these broadly Western influences, traditional French gastronomy is being challenged by a genuine ethnic wave, with rapid growth in establishments offering often Asian cuisines.
The consumption of ramen, sushi, bobuns, or Asian street food has become a part of daily life, amplifying the move away from certain French dishes deemed too heavy, too complex, or less attractive.
For more information on this topic, you can consult the detailed article we published on our blog.
Revisited cuisine: toward a tradition 3.0 ?
Another phenomenon raising questions is the repeated “revisiting” of classic French recipes. These changes, although they may be seen as an evolution of traditional cuisine toward a 3.0 version, result in a partial loss of the fundamentals.
Transforming a boeuf bourguignon into bites or a hachis parmentier into rolls may appeal to new audiences, but it redefines the very essence of the concept of “tradition.”
Similarly, food movements like flexitarianism, which promote reduced meat consumption, pose a challenge to a gastronomy largely based on meat dishes (veal blanquette, duck confit, ribeye with béarnaise sauce, etc.). These trends toward more plant-based eating therefore impose new constraints on traditional catering, which must adapt while preserving its identity.
A worrying decline in sit-down establishments
Finally, a major symbol of the perceived decline of traditional catering is the decreasing number of sit-down restaurants in France, often affecting these historic establishments. The drastic reduction in these venues, coupled with the challenges of profitability, threatens to drag down part of the sector if measures and adaptations are not put in place.
At a crossroads, traditional catering must face two contrasting paths :
Can it reinvent its model ? Find ways to evolve, adapt to new expectations without denying its identity.
Or does it risk seeing its influence decline ? By letting other cuisines and modes of consumption take over.
Chapter 3 : What if traditional restaurants disappeared completely?
Before we go any further, let’s take a moment to be reassured : no, this chapter is not morbid ! On the contrary, this is a hypothetical and forward-looking reflection on a possible, though not inevitable—future for traditional catering. After all, no one can predict with certainty what the future holds. Just like in the past, a single unexpected event—say, a new wave of Covid—could once again upend the economy, eating habits, or the restaurant market entirely.
The only certainty ? All these changes, often sudden, could intensify the already very real pressures weighing on traditional gastronomy, possibly leading to its near disappearance. Let’s imagine a dark future, perhaps still distant, but nevertheless plausible.
An irresistible rise of takeout
The revolution of the takeout market continues to disrupt traditional models. Since the pandemic, this consumption format—based on speed, convenience, and often lower costs—has found its place in French habits. With the rise of platforms like UberEats or Deliveroo, combined with the omnipresence of dark kitchens, consumers may gradually move away from sit-down dining, which is sometimes seen as too :
Long, no longer fitting the overloaded schedules of urban dwellers,
Expensive (a bill in the dining room being often much higher),
Anachronistic in a world where “speed” and “convenience” dominate consumer culture.
At the same time, traditional restaurants are seeing their operating costs increase : rent, food costs, and above all, the issue of recruitment (see next point). The result? Less economic viability for this historic model, which could accelerate the closure of many establishments in the coming years.
The recruitment crisis: an alarming problem
One of the greatest challenges faced by traditional catering today is the severe lack of qualified staff, especially in the kitchen. Finding a competent chef, capable of executing the great classics with technique while innovating with taste, has become a true struggle.
The problem is especially visible in large cities, where demand is high but candidates are sorely lacking. To cope with this crisis, many traditional restaurants are turning to foreign-born workers, who offer many qualities appreciated by employers :
Punctuality,
Committed and motivated,
A real joy for work and great efficiency, in particular.
However, these employees often lack the traditional culinary foundations needed to uphold the identity of a French restaurant. Who else but a chef trained in savoir-faire can prepare a perfectly tender sweetbread or a veal blanquette as comforting as home ? The absence of these specific and complex skills could, over time, further weaken traditional catering, unable to find the right staff to maintain the quality and standards it requires.
Moreover, a labor shortage means higher wages and increased financial pressure on restaurateurs, who struggle to balance costs amid declining foot traffic.
External influences disrupting tradition
The trend toward gastronomic globalization and openness continues to impose its trends, sometimes to the detriment of French classics. The growing popularity of world cuisines, especially Asian cuisine (ramens, sushi, poke bowls), has captivated consumers across generations. This phenomenon, amplified by practices like recommendations on social media, encourages French diners to regularly discover exotic, creative, visually appealing dishes, while drifting away from their culinary heritage.
And what if this trend accelerates ? One could imagine a France where tables are mainly dominated by restaurants with external influences, gradually turning their backs on their heritage :
Regional recipes, such as pâté en croûte, terrine, or boeuf bourguignon, would be increasingly abandoned.
Younger generations, influenced by global cuisines and plant-forward trends, would give up these dishes, seen as too heavy or outdated.
Flexitarianism (and even veganism) would impose dietary restrictions that traditional French recipes, often heavily meat-based, could not accommodate without losing their identity.
Let’s imagine a world where tartares permanently give way to bibimbaps, where crème brûlée tinged with exotic flavors becomes a revisited Japanese dessert, and where neighborhood brasseries and cafés display menus typical of cuisines far removed from the terroir.
The end of sit-down gastronomy ?
So, let’s push the hypothesis to its limits. If these trends accelerate and traditional catering fails to adapt quickly enough, one could imagine by 2050 :
A drastic reduction in the number of sit-down restaurants, particularly in small towns and rural areas, where establishments are already closing in succession due to lack of profitability or staff.
A hyper-concentration of sit-down restaurants in major cities, catering to a clientele now limited to upscale experiences or special occasions.
A generalization of alternatives: takeout, ethnic cuisines, fast casual, etc.
And in this futuristic world… would there be only 10,000 sit-down restaurants left across France, compared to nearly 100,000 today ? And why not, among those 10,000, no more than 500 true traditional restaurants, capable of upholding authentic terroir cuisine, in a country that has largely moved on ?
A worrying situation
Such a scenario may seem unrealistic, but the signs are already there: staff shortages, difficulty passing down culinary know-how, cultural and economic competition, evolving consumer expectations… The disappearance of traditional catering could be slow, gradual, but entirely plausible if no radical action is taken to stop the bleeding.
For our country, such a shift would mean losing a major part of its cultural identity. But all is not lost. As the industry transitions, there are still solutions and avenues to give this sector new vitality.
Chapter 4 : Most credible hypothesis: the gradual return of traditional catering
For over 30 years, French dining has gone through cycles of crisis and renewal, but it has never completely disappeared. Time and again, some proclaim the slow and inevitable death of sit-down dining, a victim of changing habits, tastes, or economic shifts. Yet, traditional catering remains a pillar of French gastronomy, consistently oscillating, despite opposing winds, between 95,000 and 105,000 establishments.
Each crisis feeds into the gloom : people once said that food trucks would kill restaurants. Then, home delivery was supposed to eliminate dine-in options. Yet none of this has erased our culinary tradition, because it is built on strong foundations, capable of withstanding trends and still appealing to younger generations. What’s more, in a time when many seem to lose their bearings, French gastronomic tradition takes on renewed meaning and asserts itself as an essential safe haven.
Crisis and opportunity : proof through history
With every crisis, traditional dining seems to falter, but it never completely collapses. These times of uncertainty, when the economy forces a rethink of the model, often become periods of opportunity :
The rise of food trucks, fast casual concepts, or home delivery was supposed to wipe out on-site dining, but these formats failed to fulfill the human desire for conviviality, sharing, and experience around the table.
Likewise, after each crisis, we observe evolutions in the sector that reinvent tradition—most notably through modernized forms such as bistronomy, which continues to play a key role in reimagining simple, authentic regional dishes.
More recently, the return of bouillons (restaurants offering traditional dishes at moderate prices) clearly illustrates this resilience. These places attract new generations who, far from rejecting tradition, actually seek to rediscover it in accessible and sociable ways.
The comfort of traditional anchors
At a time when we hear a lot about loss of bearings, French gastronomy—and especially its traditional component, offers a reassuring anchor. Nothing beats the warm and indulgent cocoon of a dish that breathes authenticity: a steaming boeuf bourguignon, golden pommes dauphines, or a creamy veal blanquette. These dishes go beyond simple nourishment. They represent moments of pleasure, togetherness, and release in an often stressful daily life.
Traditions don’t just belong on the plate : they are also being revived culturally and in the media.
Take the example of the national pâté en croûte competition, which each year celebrates the craftsmanship of chefs around this emblematic specialty. A true showcase of French cuisine, this event proves that even the oldest, most complex dishes still hold deep appeal.
In the media, culinary shows—from TV competitions to programs highlighting classic techniques—help to elevate traditional gastronomic anchors. Many inspire their audiences to rediscover the fundamentals of classic French cooking, rekindling popular interest in this heritage.
These examples highlight a return to roots movement that makes traditional catering a central force in the quest for authenticity and cultural renewal, in a world where globalization often tends to standardize cuisines and experiences.
Culinary excellence: the indelible mark of tradition
Traditional catering is synonymous with excellence, a quality sought after by both local food lovers and foreign tourists. Unlike other types of food service, classic French gastronomy is built on unshakable pillars :
A mastery of timeless recipes, especially the "signature dishes" unique to each establishment, which embody culinary know-how. These iconic dishes—whether cassoulet, coq au vin, or Grand Marnier soufflé—form the foundation on which a traditional restaurant builds its identity and reputation.
A certain art of living around the plate, a blend of service, preparation, and culinary tradition. This complete experience cannot be improvised and requires a solid model that only sit-down dining can truly offer.
A quality praised by tourists: for a foreign visitor, nothing beats a table that breathes France and its authentic flavors. Traditional restaurants offer this unique culinary experience, attracting millions of fans each year. In Paris, for example, classic gastronomy is often seen as just as essential as landmarks like the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre.
Tradition still holds a central place in our lives
Nothing, not even modern consumption habits, can fully replace the timeless power of traditions. A well-gratinated French onion soup, snails with garlic butter, or a homemade tarte Tatin embody a return to the essentials, both humble and full of pleasure, that even the most exotic trends cannot sustainably compete with.
The combination of a convivial apéro (an essential of the French art of living!) and a simple yet elegantly prepared meal shows just how much traditional dining allows us to weave timeless connections into everyday French life.
The work to be done
However, while traditional catering has everything it needs to endure, it must not rest on its laurels. Quality and tradition remain strong arguments, but greater effort and innovation will be needed to meet modern challenges :
Redefine its hospitality format, from bistronomy to bouillons, to attract new audiences without betraying its identity.
Reconnect with generations who have lost culinary bearings, through bold stances and new experiences.
Thus, while traditional catering remains the most credible hypothesis for the future, it must be supported by thoughtful care, regular self-reflection, and a strong will to evolve. These efforts will be addressed in the final chapter, where we’ll explore the concrete actions necessary to ensure its renewal and long-term sustainability.
Chapter 5 : So, what does the future hold for traditional restaurants?
After exploring the threats facing traditional catering as well as its countless strengths and foundations, one central question remains : what future lies ahead for this emblematic institution of French culture ?
The pessimistic hypothesis of its disappearance still seems unlikely, but it’s clear that traditional catering will not be able to sustain itself without thoughtful reinvention and adaptation to modern expectations. Far from sinking into nostalgia, the future depends on a renaissance, in which this heritage must not only preserve its essence, but also capitalize on the new opportunities brought about by societal and culinary changes.
If one thing is certain, it’s that traditional catering holds within itself the necessary assets to evolve in a subtle balance between past and present, responding to a consumer desire for authenticity and innovation.
Chapter 6 : A necessary renewal : foundations revisited and reinforced
For traditional catering to sustainably resurface and maintain its central place at the French table, a certain number of principles are essential. These revisited foundations, while respecting the culinary heritage, must incorporate new expectations that shape contemporary habits.
Refreshing its image among younger generations
Generations Z and Millennials, influenced by social media and instant gratification, won’t settle for a menu simply listing blanquette de veau or quiche Lorraine. It’s necessary to rethink the communication around traditional catering :
Highlight authentic stories that celebrate culinary heritage, local producers, and the artisanal techniques behind each recipe.
Leverage visual marketing by making dishes appealing on popular platforms like Instagram or TikTok (a perfectly captured œuf en meurette can become a social media star!).
Collaborate with influencers and culinary media to reconnect these generations with the emotion of a cuisine that embodies deep values: conviviality, sharing, and authenticity.
The goal ? Modernize the image without betraying the heritage, so these young audiences see tradition as part of themselves rather than something outdated.
Tradition revisited through a plant-based approach
At a time when ecological and ethical concerns are gaining ground, integrating more plant-based options into traditional catering becomes a strategic opportunity. While classic French cuisine has historically centered on meat dishes, a transformation toward high-quality plant-based recipes doesn’t mean abandoning its values :
Maintain the demand for quality while creating plant-based dishes that are both refined and indulgent. A Jerusalem artichoke purée with a plant-based jus, a gratin dauphinois without animal cream yet perfectly creamy, or a reinvented root vegetable terrine can easily sit alongside traditional classics.
Draw inspiration from old recipes that showcase local vegetables: green bean salads, forest mushroom tarts, or forgotten soups (such as nettle velouté or potato and leek soup).
Add a modern touch to these recipes to meet the expectations of flexitarians and vegetarians while honoring the essence of local, seasonal ingredients.
Vegetables have always been an integral part of traditional dishes: working on their taste richness with the same precision as meat or fish would be a true mark of excellence and a way to bridge tradition and modern ecological awareness.
Restoring meaning and social recognition
The recruitment crisis currently affecting the restaurant sector has damaged the image of this industry, which is vital to preserving French culinary identity. If we hope to reinvent tradition, we must also restore dignity and appeal to these professions :
Improve working conditions: restructured hours, guaranteed days off, more attractive salaries—all measures to make restaurant jobs desirable and viable.
Promote pride in craftsmanship by spotlighting the men and women who uphold or reinvent traditional recipes.
Ultimately, reconnection also goes through education: telling the human stories behind each recipe, elevating chefs as cultural and gastronomic links, and reminding us that the plate is above all a human and artistic experience.
Hospitality and experience: a key driver
In today’s dining world, the customer experience goes far beyond the plate. A good traditional dish can be elevated by :
A welcoming and attentive service, especially for foreign tourists. Accustomed to sometimes more fluid, customer-centric Anglo-Saxon models, they could be charmed by a reimagined hospitality centered around warmth and attention to detail.
Elements of ambiance and conviviality, such as a crafted aperitif, theatrical presentation of dishes, or a setting that invites discovery and enjoyment.
The art of French gastronomy relies as much on culinary savoir-faire as on the art of hosting—a crucial component that must be reaffirmed in any attempt at revival.
The path of hybrid establishments
To address major societal changes, traditional catering will often need to follow the path of the hybrid establishment, where multiple activities are combined to meet diverse needs :
A space combining cocktail bar (mixology) and gastronomy, where classics are revisited to add more dynamism to the experience.
A coffeeshop or tea room vibe during the day, with homemade pastries or typical dishes accompanying moments of relaxation.
Evening or festive formats, such as “bouillon nights,” where hearty rustic dishes are served in a convivial and playful atmosphere.
These hybrid spaces are not meant to dilute tradition, but rather to multiply the entry points for new customers, while staying true to French culinary values.
Chapter 7 : Tradition and innovation: rediscovering forgotten recipes
Since renaissance also comes through innovation, why not bet on lesser-known traditional recipes, capable of sparking curiosity and enthusiasm? Here are two examples :
Poule au pot with suprême sauce: an iconic dish of Henri IV, it has lost popularity over time. Yet its richness in flavor and emblematic character make it an ideal candidate for a modern rediscovery.
Millas: a traditional preparation made from corn flour, a rustic variation of flan, which could be reinvented as a dessert using local ingredients that recall the Gascon origins of rural traditions.
These lesser-known dishes, subtly modernized, could perfectly illustrate the ideal marriage between modernity and roots.
Conclusion : a future to build
The path of traditional catering is still full of hope, but it requires strong involvement from restaurateurs as well as economic and cultural stakeholders. By integrating essential elements such as quality, flawless hospitality, attention to plant-based options, and the ability to reinvent the customer experience, this heritage gastronomy can still regain its former glory in a changing market.
This is the price to pay for tradition and modernity to walk hand in hand, offering a new chance to our beloved old tables, ready to charm present and future generations. A gradual comeback is not only possible, it is fully conceivable. And as Charles Aznavour once said: “Times change… but love remains, immutable.”
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